DD: Can we buy your
collection anywhere? If so, where?
OG: There are few
very nice boutiques we are working with and quickly mention some of them: Best
Shop – Berlin, Ostblock in Zurich, Two See in London, Takashimaya in New York,
Sreda in Ljublijana, I Love Shopping in Bologna and others in Italy, Hungary,
Japan, Netherlands, Germany;
DD: Are you involved
in any outside projects in other fields?
OG: Designing Rozalb
de Mura collections takes most of my time. Nevertheless, from time to time I
escape into exciting collaborations with various artists. Together with the
team I work with, we are involved in interesting multidisciplinary projects.
Rozalb de Mura commissioned the British sound artist Mikhail Karikis to compose
the music for our show at Ideal Berlin and OnIoff last season and he
commissioned us to do special pieces for his performances and a drawing for his
stunning Morphica album that is released these days. Another project was
designing a special bag for the Contemporary Art Biannual in Berlin -
"When Things Cast No Shadow".
Am citit atat de multe descrieri ale brandului Rozalb de Mura, atat de frumos structurate si enuntate, dar nici una nu provenea dintr-o sursa romaneasca. Probabil inca o data se intampla previzibilul : nu stim sa ne "valorificam valorile", in schimb o fac altii pentru noi.
<< Transylvania might be
better known for gypsies and vampires, but it’s also the home of Olah Gyarfas,
one of the most exciting new European designers around. Gyarfas is the designer
for Rozalb de Mura, the Romanian menswear brand whose hype has been steadily
snowballing for the past few seasons. But, although the label was only launched
three years ago, fashion has run in Gyarfas’s blood forever. “My mother was a
tailor,” he explains. “I’ve always been surrounded by clothes, textures and
patterns, people trying on new things and the beauty of it all.”
Rozalb De Mura
encapsulates all the elements of the Carpathian landscape in which its
headquarters are nestled, and takes its lead (and name) from their self-created
fictional hero, Baron Rozalb de Mura, who is said to roam the mountains of
Romania and travel through time and space. Minimalist silhouettes,
craftsmanship and historical references are just a few of the label’s traits,
and their spring/summer 2009 collection follows exactly those guidelines. “It’s
always a challenge to look back into the past and reinterpret elements with a
21st-century mind,” says Gyarfas. “So the Rozalb de Mura spring/summer
collection, The Drums of War Will Thunder Once Again, has a strange,
out-of-this-world kind of feeling.”
Gyarfas likes to work
in the space where gender distinction is blurred, which sees his new collection
setting razor-sharp tailoring against the softness of white, blue and cream
fabrics. Alongside the androgyny, 19th century-inspired elongated shirts with
puffed sleeves evoke the mood of monastic warriors, while voluminous, pleated
trousers recall MC Hammer’s inimitable 80s style. “I admire minimalism,”
explains Gyarfas. “But I also love the flamboyant exuberance and foolishness of
the 80s.”
Gyarfas brought his
energetic aesthetic to life in 2007, with the opening of Rozalb de Mura’s
Bucharest store, which was designed by Liste Noir. Priding itself on
collaborations with underground artists, musicians and writers, Rozalb de Mura
is also known for its unconventional catwalk presentations. Last September,
London’s On / Off played host to Gyarfas’s unique vision. Shown alongside Mark
Fast and Alexander Koutny, Rozalb de Mura was the only label to present a
solely men’s collection. Needless to say, we hope Gyarfas doesn’t stay in the
mountains for too long. >> ( Anna Battista pentru dazeddigital )
<<I belong to an
ex-communist country, in which the scene is quite small and still struggling to
coagulate. It is still quite conservative and underdeveloped. Until recently,
most of the fashion meant oscillating between the "entirely sexy" or
an impressive kitsch without humor. I think this was because of an unsavory
mixture of long years of communist regime, some Balkan influences and lack of
openness and curiosity.
In Romania, there is
not much infrastructure, nor support for developing a business in this field,
so you have to imagine your own solutions. Consequently, things are quite hard
for a young label. There are also some really talented young designers,
struggling to present their vision and to build a business. >> ( Olah Gyarfas intrebat despre industria de moda din Romania )
Probabil nici daca ma straduiam, nu reuseam sa raspund mai bine acestei intrebari.
Pana aici, cred ca totul este destul de clar.
De aici incolo, devine ceva mai personal.
Desert Twilight 6A-3410 + Power Cadillca 1B-2140 = colectia de toamna iarna 2009-2010 Rozalb de Mura.
Am avut parte de o portie mare de amuzament, cand, vrand sa citesc niste pareri "avizate" ale unor site-uri de moda romanesti - asta dupa ce citisem deja "presa" straina, dau peste acelasi text, preluat identic de pe site-ul "stylecanteen", si tradus cu nerusinare de "editorii" nostri. Nu s-a mentionat nicio sursa, nu s-au pus nici macar ghilimele. Si eu tin cont de informatiile bune pe care le culeg din stanga si din dreapta. Dar dupa ce inmagazinez tot si imi formez o parere de ansamblu, incep sa transpun in cuvinte proprii, construind astfel, implicit, o opinie proprie. Atunci cand consider ca ceea ce au spus altii nu merita modificat sau reinterpretat, pun ghilimele, scriu sursa si atasez textul ca atare.
STYLECANTEEN.COM : "Powder Cadillac
1B-2140 & Desert Twilight 6A-3410 is the colour chart inspired title of
Rozalb de Mura AW 09/10 collection. Rozalb is mostly menswear but it has a
small, but beautiful formed womenswear collection which Olah presented in the
exhibition showcase. The collection is built around the colour of the future
predicted in imaginary research by famous color psychologist Max Luscher! all
pieces are created with great precision 'cutting, sewing, ironing and
numbering'. An unexpected dip in a Dulux paint tub creates the uniform workwear
colour palette, guys in greenish-grey and girls in baby pink. Baby pink and
ruffles! not exactly the look you'd expect for your winter wardrobe but it
seems to me that if your going to push your limits and pucker up your lips in
pink would it not be a worthy idea it extend the intrepid steps to ones
wardrobe with a touch of Powder Cadillac?"
FASHION&BEAUTY.RO : < Colectia Rozalb de Mura toamna-iarna 09/10 este construita in jurul “culorilor viitorului” prezise intr-un studiu de cercetare imaginar de catre faimosul psiholog german Max Luscher – o interpretare ironica a isteriei trendurilor care dicteaza piata din ziua de azi. In “Desert Twilight 6A-3410 & Powder Cadillac 1B-2140”, piesele au urmat cu precizie clasicul traseu: croit, cusut, calcat, numerotat, plus o scufundare neasteptata in baia de vopsea. Colectia de baieti, in vopseaua gri verzui, cea de fete, contrar asteptarilor hibernale, in cea rozaliu-pudra. >
Rozaliu pudra ???? Haha. TARE de tot. Oamenii sunt maximi : daca in textul original autorul mentioneaza ca hainele par scufundate intr-un tub de vopsea Dulux ( brand de vopsea lavabila pentru pereti ), ai nostrii o baga pe aia cu baia de vopsea - realizand ca nimeni nu va stii ce e aia Dulux (nici chiar ei), elimina termenul de tot ! Sau mai e partea cu studiul imaginar al doctorului Max Luscher, care, in textul original vine ca un joc de cuvinte si idei al autorului - aceste culori ale viitorului fiind o interpretare pur fictiva, o inserare a ideii de Max Luscher si ale sale studii psihologice. Ai nostrii desigur preiau mot-a-mot, fara a "gandi la rece"; sau mai bine spus, "fara a gandi". Deci nu exista culorile viitorului si nici studiul imaginar - autorul s-a jucat putin, atata tot.
As mai da un exemplu : acelasi text, aceeasi traducere, aceeasi greseala, pe un blog de data aceasta, tot romanesc si tot de fashion; dar nu o voi face, pentru ca imi sunt colegi si cunoscuti si nu as vrea sa le produc o neplacere. Desi ar mertita-o; tocmai ei se ambalau cat de mult le displace faptul ca toti preiau texte si comunicate, transpunandu-le pe blogurile personale, aspect pe care l-ar evita cu desavarsire. Probabil v-ati gandit ca stylecanteen nu este un site foarte cunoscut. Dar cum ramane cu fashion&beauty ???
Dar e cazul sa lasam deoparte rautatile. Pana la urma sa faca fiecare cum considera. Pe mine ma intereseaza bucataria mea si ce "gatesc" eu aici. Atata timp cat nu "afum" pe nimeni, sunt linistita. Si daca "afum", inseamna ca a meritat-o din plin : )
Revenind la Olah Gyarfas si al lui caracter-brand Rozalb de Mura, precizez ca alegerea cromatica pentru colectia despre care vorbim, m-a luat total prin surprindere. Adica, cine s-ar fi gandit la un baby pink atat de primavaratec pentru iarna murdara si friguroasa sin Romania ??
Imi este pur si simplu imposibil sa imi imaginez acele cizme-botosei din panza roz calcand intr -un namet de zapada sau, mai rau, intr-o baltoaca de noroi si flescaiala ! Sau acele rochii precum o bomboana fondanta , ingramadite in spatele unui palton de stofa, strans bine in talie cu cordon, sa nu intre frigul !
Singura solutie vlabila pe care o vad in cazul de fata este sa iti achizitionezi cateva piese, pe care sa le pastrezi pana in primavara, cand te vei putea bucura din plin de ele.
In ceea ce priveste colectia de baieti - care de altfel reprezinta latura principala a brandului Rozalb, situatia este diferita, evident, acel gri prafuit reprezentand camuflajul ideal pentru anotimpul de iarna din jungla romaneasca.
Tin sa subliniez faptul ca remarcile de mai sus sunt aplicabile strict celor care traiesc in Romania, respectiv Bucuresti, unde iarna, stiti bine, nu-i ca vara !
Una peste alta, Rozalb de Mura este un alt brand care face cinste modei romanesti (spun alt brand, pentru ca in articolele trecute am vorbit si despre Andreea Badala). Eu se pare ca am prins febra designerilor romani de referinta si, ca atare, am facut o categorie separata pentru editorialele "Made in Romania".
Nu m-am aruncat in a critica, a comenta sau a relata aspecte legate de partea tehnica a creatiilor, de detalii, finisaje, materiale sau forme. Am considerat drept suficiente textele preluate si marcate cu ghilimele. In plus, nu am apucat sa vad colectia live, ceea ce ma intristeaza cumplit.
Sper insa, ca odata cu interesul meu pentru acesti designeri romani de talie internationala si atat de apreciati de catre critica din afara tarii, sa va cultiv si voua, sa va insuflu, un sentiment asemanator. Sper sa fac parte din categoria acelora care incearca din rasputeri sa schimbe mentalitatea la noi in ceea ce priveste alegerea brandurilor si totodata sa largesc orizontul si limitele a ceea ce inseamna "curajul in moda". Sunt convinsa ca e nevoie de curaj pentru a purta creatiile recomandate de Pret-a-Protester, dar acest curaj se poate educa sau insufla, daca nu il ai din nastere.
"THE FEELING IS FUN.
THE RESAULT IS AN ATTITUDE.
PRET-A-PROTESTER ATTITUDE."
