Aceste interviuri sunt realizate de catre Elizabeth Spiridakis pentru "The Moment Blog".
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BRYAN BOY
He has
achieved the holiest of fashion grails, as far as I am concerned:
fall-winter ‘08 Marc Jacobs featured a BB bag, inspired by him. Three
guesses as to Bryan’s handbag of choice. As if that weren’t reason
enough, he makes late-night Lanvin purchases on the Internet (leopard
print clutch, thank you very much) and dressed like an LV Richard
Prince naughty nurse for Halloween. Oh, and he has a Birkin.
First foray into the feminine realm: When he wore his mother’s pearls to accessorize his “dreadful” Catholic school uniform.
What’s your fashion philosophy? “Gender is irrelevant whenever I admire something. I like what I like and if I can afford something, I buy it.”
Why go gal? “I’m a rather pixie-sized guy. I’m
5′8″, 5′9″ and relatively slim. Back in the dark ages (let’s not even
go there), finding clothes that fit skinny boys was so hard. Those
24-inch CK jeans were (emphasis on ‘were,’ haha) my best friend!
Growing up in the ’90s, the whole men’s-wear scene was so different
than what it is now. Everyone was big, bulky, ripped and
testosterone-charged — Marcus Schenkenberg, is dat chu? How can a slim,
lithe, Asian teenage boy relate to that?”
Spring obsessions: “Lanvin tees and bags, Balmain jackets, Givenchy legging pants and everything Gareth Pugh.”
Who is killing it these days? “Lady Gaga!”
Which male celebrity on the scene could use a touch of the androgyne? “That boy from ‘Twilight.’” [Editor: Robert Pattinson. … I totally agree, by the way.]
Style icon: “I don’t have icons, per se, but I
greatly admire Diane Pernet. The movie ‘Clueless’ (’Mean Girls’ doesn’t
even come close) played a huge influence in my teenage years. And, of
course, Francine Pascal’s ‘Sweet Valley’ books — Team Jessica Wakefield
all the way!”
Buy or borrow? “Buy! After I bought my Birkin three years ago, I basically couldn’t eat for four months because I was so broke.”
Which women’s designer is really making collections that are fitted for boys? “Balenciaga, Rick Owens, Ann Demeulemeester (who is already quite androgynous), Balmain and Givenchy.”
Anna or Carine? “Where’s the Aliona Doletskaya
option? Anna Wintour, of course! I admire Carine’s influential point of
view and fresh take on things, but will she stand the test of time?”
YU MASUI
He wears neoprene neon floral Balenciaga and a hamburger purse. With shorts. Please. No-brainer.
First foray into the feminine realm: Vivienne
Westwood rocking-horse shoes. “I actually bought those shoes for the
first day at uni. In Japan, there is a ceremony for the first day of
school and your parents attend as well. My parents freaked out when I
came out of the house wearing them!”
What’s your fashion philosophy? “Look ridiculous in
the best designers’ clothes. I’ve never wanted to look cool in my life.
My entire life is like a joke anyway. But I don’t like wearing costumes
on the street. A costume is not fashion, and what I try to do is
fashion.”
Why go gal? “Clothes are getting more and more
borderless, like the new YSL unisex collection. Women’s wear always
takes ideas from men’s wear, so why can’t men’s get influence from
women’s? Anyway, the biggest reason is men’s wear is more boring than
women’s wear!!”
Buy or borrow? “Buy! What is the point of
borrowing? Shopping is the most fun part of life, and that’s all I do
every day. Also, I can’t just have things for one day; I wanna own them
and style them different ways.”
Your bag of the moment? “I used to buy bags from
Balenciaga, Prada, etc. — the latest look or key trends every season.
But at the end of the day I didn’t really use them. After I bought
them, I forgot about them. I like Carine’s no-handbag policy.”
Anna or Carine? “Defo, Carine! Anna is too conservative for me to understand.”
Spring obsessions: “Christopher Kane! I found many
things that I want. I actually bought black trousers with big sequins
from fall/winter ‘08/’09 and love them!
“Obviously my favorite designer is Balenciaga. I want to buy the
futuristic pants, and I kinda fancy the multicolored metallic jacket.
And I don’t mind that small clutch. I also ordered some Prada from the
men’s collection; this spring/summer is very feminine.”
Who is killing it these days? “Mmm … I have no idea, I’m not really interested in celeb kinda things. Maybe my friend Patrick Wolf?”
Which male celebrity on the scene could use a touch of the androgyne? “Many male celebs are too fit and masculine; it could be difficult … and can be ugly.”
Style icon? “I’ve never been influenced by others for style. I know who I am and what I am wearing.”
Which women’s designer is really making collections that are fit for boys?
“I don’t think anyone really does — they are made for women. There are
not that many guys who look great in dresses anyway. Although some
designs from the past few years by Balenciaga could be good on guys.”
JEAN PAUL PAULA
Turbans with
sneakers? Margiela black bar sunglasses with a jumpsuit? An entire blog
post devoted to “Paris Is Burning”? Take your pick. Jean-Paul makes me
do things like save photos of him and send out e-mails saying, “Who is this?! I must
know.” What I like best about him is that a lot of his looks are the
same as those of a lot of the cooler-than-you Euro female editors at
the shows, but his attitude and haircut blow them all away.
What’s your fashion philosophy? “I don’t dress to
appeal to a possible partner. I dress to impress myself! A few years
ago I promised myself to try out every clothing style that appealed to
me, whether it be goth, punk or dandy. I bought what I liked, made
certain looks work for me, and thus found a way to dress that I could
call ‘me.’”
First foray into the feminine realm: “I took the
easy way, I guess. I started with parts of an outfit and then I found
problems finding what I wanted in my size, so I bought women’s clothes
because they fit better. I guess the shoes were the last touch. I
started wearing them about two years ago.”
Why go gal? “I think men tend to buy some items
that are originally made for women because they can’t find them made
for men. A nice Chanel jacket, for example. It’s only since men started
buying them that they are being made especially for men. But even then
in a very much different fit. And since we started using makeup, why
not have a good bag, too? Be it a clutch or shopper.”
Spring obsessions: “I’m a big fan of the
spring/summer collection of Juun J. I would like the corset Alexander
McQueen showed in his last collection, and I wouldn’t mind getting the
whole 11th look with it, to be honest. I would love to have the jacket
of the 11th look of Balenciaga. Gareth Pugh tights and heels, if
Beyoncé doesn’t use ‘em all up before I get to have a look at them. A
pair of leather pants from Givenchy, and again I wouldn’t mind to have
the whole 32nd look. Also, the Gianfranco Ferré shirts and dresses are
to die for.”
Who is killing it these days? “Sonny Groo and Majid Karrouch — my best friends, my colleagues, my inspiration.”
Which male celebrity on the scene could use a touch of the androgyne? “Vincent Gallo, Thom Browne, Marc Jacobs and Rick Owens. They would look genius in a pair of heels!
Style icon: “Is Grace Jones too easy? I remember as
a child seeing her in “A View to a Kill,” and being horrified. But she
looked so amazingly beautiful in that movie.”
Buy or borrow? “Up until now I have always bought.
I prefer it that I way, I like to own what I wear. But I’m not shy, and
I wouldn’t mind to borrow.”
Which women’s designer is really making collections that are fit for boys?
“It depends on the collection, but Ann Demeulemeester, Balenciaga, Jill
Sander, Calvin Klein and Yves Saint Laurent. It’s a pretty broad group
with diverse designs for powerful women. But I can pull off most of
their looks.”
Anna or Carine? “There is no ‘or.’ There is only
both in the same position, in different parts of the world. Anna in
America and Carine in France, and I wouldn’t want to have it any other
way.”
